Verify the AC socket first
Test the outlet with another appliance and check the breaker or fuse if the outlet is dead. The charger cannot self-diagnose a missing AC supply.
Use this path when the charger appears completely dead even though AC power is available.
Run these quick checks before you assume the charger has a deeper hardware fault.
AC socket is energised. Test it with another appliance.
AC plug is fully inserted, undamaged, and its pins are clean and straight.
DC output connector is fully locked into the vehicle inlet, not just inserted.
Both AC and DC cables are free of cuts, kinks, crushing damage, or severe bending.
Charger vents are unobstructed and have at least 10 cm clearance on all sides.
Ambient temperature is below 45 C.
No extension cord is being used, or the cord is correctly rated and within the allowed length.
Universal reset has been tried: AC off for 30 seconds, then reconnect.
Follow the steps in order. Stop and escalate as soon as a step says the issue is not field-serviceable.
Test the outlet with another appliance and check the breaker or fuse if the outlet is dead. The charger cannot self-diagnose a missing AC supply.
Look for bent pins, corrosion, debris, heat marks, or damage to the cable jacket. Make sure the plug is fully seated.
Voltage drop and poor contact at an extension lead are common causes of no-start complaints. Connect the charger directly to a rated wall socket.
Disconnect AC power for 30 seconds, ensure the LEDs are fully off, then reconnect. Most non-hardware startup faults clear with a full AC reset.
The charger may have an internal input fuse or AC input circuit fault. This is not a field-service task.
Keep moving between the support guides below to narrow the issue faster.
Pick a symptom and follow the correct field checks before escalating to service.
Review Solterra LED fault codes, match blink patterns, and use the interactive simulator and reference table.
Understand the AC input path, PFC stage, DC-DC stage, relay, and thermal controls.